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Mandelic acid is a familiar ingredient to many women. In today’s skincare world, it has become a highly sought-after superstar—and for good reason. Its effectiveness makes it a favorite among those pursuing flawless skin. But what exactly makes mandelic acid so well-regarded in skincare? How should it be used properly? And how does it differ from salicylic acid? In this article, we’ll answer these questions and dive deep into the properties and benefits of this trending ingredient.
What Is Mandelic Acid? A Gentle Organic Acid with 4 Major Skincare Benefits
Mandelic acid—also known as bitter mandelic acid or amygdalic acid—is a natural organic acid extracted from bitter almonds. It belongs to the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) family, which includes glycolic acid, lactobionic acid, malic acid, citric acid, and more. Among AHAs, mandelic acid stands out for its multifunctional skincare benefits. By adjusting the skin’s surface acidity, it helps exfoliate dead skin cells, reduce oil production, clear pores, fade acne scars, and even out skin tone.
Here are the four key characteristics that make mandelic acid a favorite in the skincare world:
1. Gentle on Skin
Compared to other AHAs, mandelic acid is gentler on the skin. This is thanks to its larger molecular size and oil-soluble properties, which allow it to penetrate the skin slowly and evenly—minimizing irritation. While some AHAs may cause stinging, redness, or peeling, mandelic acid is milder, making it ideal for all skin types, especially sensitive skin.
Those with sensitive skin often struggle to find suitable products. Mandelic acid provides a gentle yet effective option for improving skin conditions such as acne, hyperpigmentation, and clogged pores without causing excessive dryness or irritation.
2. Acidic Nature for Exfoliation & Anti-Inflammation
Its acidity gives mandelic acid two powerful functions: gentle exfoliation and antibacterial action.
First, it can penetrate sebaceous glands to remove dead skin cells on the surface and within pores, promoting cell turnover. It also stimulates the production of growth factors that boost collagen production—helping to firm the skin, reduce wrinkles, and improve texture and radiance.
Second, its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties help control bacteria on the skin and reduce acne formation. This all-around action clears pores, prevents blackheads, and improves overall skin health.
3. Antioxidant Power
Mandelic acid has antioxidant properties that help neutralize free radicals—unstable molecules caused by UV exposure, pollution, and smoking. These free radicals damage collagen and elastin in the skin, leading to wrinkles, sagging, and discoloration.
By protecting against oxidative stress, mandelic acid slows down skin aging and improves signs of aging such as pigmentation, dullness, and uneven skin tone.
4. Oil-Loving (Lipophilic) Nature
The key to mandelic acid’s effectiveness in treating acne lies in its lipophilic (oil-loving) nature. To understand how it works, we first need to understand how acne forms.
Oil glands in the skin secrete sebum to moisturize the skin. But stress, heat, and hormones can cause overproduction. When dead skin cells build up and block pores, trapped sebum oxidizes and hardens—forming blackheads. In this oxygen-deprived environment, Cutibacterium acnes can multiply, triggering inflammation and acne.
Mandelic acid, being lipophilic, mixes easily with skin oils and penetrates deep into pores. It gently speeds up exfoliation from within, clears blockages, and helps normalize cell turnover. It also regulates oil production, purifies pores, and reduces pore size. Its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects prevent future breakouts. It’s a gentle yet effective treatment for early-stage acne and clogged pores.
In summary, mandelic acid is excellent for brightening, exfoliating, and pore care. It suits all skin types and improves both the appearance and texture of the skin. However, because it’s still an acid, patch testing is recommended. Follow the correct skincare steps and consult a skincare professional to ensure the product is suited for your skin type and needs.
How to Use Mandelic Acid Safely: Focus on pH and Concentration
In the past, news reports have cited cases of skin damage and ulceration caused by overly acidic mandelic acid products. As a result, Taiwan’s Ministry of Health and Welfare has stipulated that mandelic acid products must have a pH of no less than 3.5 to reduce irritation and ensure safety.
Choosing the Right Concentration
Mandelic acid products on the market range from 5% to 30% in concentration. Generally, products with less than 10% concentration are recommended for daily skincare. A range of 5–8% is suitable for dry, combination-dry, and sensitive skin—especially for those with relatively stable skin conditions but mild whiteheads, dullness, or uneven tone.
Products with 25–30% concentration are suitable for all skin types but are recommended for spot treatment only, particularly for more severe acne or hyperpigmentation issues.
It’s important to note that higher concentration ≠ better results. Overuse or misuse of high-strength acids can backfire. A pH that’s too low (below 3.5) increases the risk of irritation and should only be used in medical settings under professional supervision. Licensed practitioners can assess your skin and tailor the concentration and treatment duration accordingly.
Additionally, while mandelic acid can be used as a pH-adjusting ingredient in cosmetics, such products must not claim therapeutic effects or use terms like "peeling" in marketing.
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Mandelic Acid vs. Salicylic Acid: 6 Key Differences
Mandelic acid and salicylic acid are both popular skincare ingredients with some overlap in benefits—but they also have distinct differences:
| Category | Mandelic Acid | Salicylic Acid |
|---|---|---|
| Source | Derived from bitter almonds | Derived from willow bark or chemically synthesized |
| Molecular Size | Larger molecules (AHA) = slower skin penetration | Smaller molecules (BHA) = deeper penetration |
| Solubility | Oil-soluble but gentler due to size | Oil-soluble and penetrates deeply |
| Function | Surface exfoliation, brightening, gentle enough for daily use | Deep pore cleansing, targets acne and blackheads |
| Skin Type | Suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin | Best for oily, acne-prone skin; not ideal for sensitive skin |
| Strength | Mild and suitable for at-home use | Stronger; may cause irritation if overused |
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FAQ
Can mandelic acid cause side effects or discomfort?
Although mandelic acid is considered one of the gentler AHAs, it can still potentially cause some side effects or discomfort. These may include mild irritation, redness, a burning sensation, dryness, or peeling. Such symptoms can be more pronounced for people with sensitive skin. Additionally, mandelic acid may increase your skin’s sensitivity to UV rays, so it’s important to use sun protection during the day. In the early stages of use, a “purging phase” may occur—where breakouts or acne may temporarily worsen. This is a normal reaction as the mandelic acid works to speed up cell turnover. During this time, your pores and sebaceous glands are actively expelling deep-seated impurities, which might temporarily cause oil-water imbalance and more frequent breakouts, especially for oily or combination skin types. However, with continued use, these symptoms should gradually improve. The breakouts that do appear will typically heal faster thanks to the mandelic acid’s action. Reactions to mandelic acid vary from person to person, and not everyone will experience purging or acne. Therefore, a patch test is recommended before full use to ensure there is no significant irritation. For those with dry or sensitive skin, dryness and peeling may occur due to imbalance in oil and moisture levels. In most cases, simply increasing hydration will help, so there's no need to worry too much. If peeling becomes persistent or worsens, it could mean you're using a concentration that’s too high or applying it too frequently.
Is mandelic acid suitable for daily use?
There are many different types of mandelic acid products available on the market, and its gentle nature makes it an option for sensitive skin types. However, Dr. Cheung Yee Ching advises against daily use. Instead, she recommends starting with use every 2 to 3 days, while closely monitoring your skin’s reaction. If there’s no sign of irritation, you can gradually increase the frequency. Dr. Cheung also warns that if your skin has wounds, infections, or inflammatory conditions like eczema, avoid using products with mandelic acid. If you experience redness, peeling, or stinging after use, stop immediately and consult a dermatologist. Mandelic acid may also make the skin more sensitive and dry. Therefore, Dr. Cheung recommends using sunscreen and maintaining proper hydration during use. You should also avoid combining it with other acid-based ingredients like retinoic acid or salicylic acid to prevent over-irritation. These precautions help minimize the risk of adverse reactions and ensure your skin stays well cared for during treatment.
Can salicylic acid and mandelic acid be used together?
Yes. Some studies suggest that combining mandelic acid with salicylic acid can be effective in more intensive exfoliating or resurfacing routines. This combination is especially helpful for individuals with darker skin tones or those dealing with uneven pigmentation or acne scars from inflammation. However, it’s difficult to determine the specific effects of mandelic acid alone based on current research. The brightening effects often seen in this combination may be largely attributed to salicylic acid. So if your main concern is uneven skin tone or acne marks, using both acids together might be beneficial. But if your primary goal is simply to brighten dull skin, salicylic acid alone may be sufficient without adding mandelic acid.
There are so many exfoliating serums—how do you choose the right one?
Common exfoliating acids include AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), salicylic acid, and mandelic acid. It’s important to compare their properties before choosing the most suitable one. AHAs have the smallest molecular size and are water-soluble, allowing them to penetrate deep into the dermis. However, this can also mean they are more likely to cause stinging. For this reason, AHAs are typically used under professional supervision to treat severe acne or acne scarring. Salicylic acid and mandelic acid are both oil-soluble with larger molecular sizes. Salicylic acid can penetrate more deeply, which makes it more potent but also potentially more irritating. In contrast, mandelic acid—highlighted in this article—has higher skin affinity and primarily works on the surface layer of the skin. It is gentler, safer, and less likely to cause redness or itchiness. That’s why it’s often a go-to choice for clinical treatments and also well-suited for home use.
What precautions should you take when using mandelic acid serum?
Many people see the word serum and mistakenly think mandelic acid should be applied after toner. However, this actually reduces its absorption. The correct method is to apply it immediately after cleansing, as the first step of your routine! After washing your face, gently pat dry with a towel, then apply an appropriate amount of mandelic acid serum to your face in circular motions, avoiding the delicate eye area. Once fully absorbed, you can proceed with the rest of your skincare routine for optimal results. As for rumors that mandelic acid can cause skin darkening—this is false. Mandelic acid itself does not cause hyperpigmentation. Any darkening you notice is likely due to your skin being more vulnerable after the removal of deeper layers of dead skin, making it more sensitive to UV exposure. That's why sun protection is essential after exfoliating with mandelic acid. Also avoid layering with other exfoliating products or acid-based treatments to prevent over-irritation, which could set you back from achieving smoother skin. Lastly, always adjust your skincare routine and frequency based on how your skin reacts. Be diligent about hydration and sun protection. If severe reactions occur—such as dryness, peeling, redness, or breakouts—and don’t improve after modifying your routine, it’s best to consult a dermatologist.
